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Paisley Shawls
European adventurers and colonists first saw paisley fabrics some 200 years ago in India, where the vibrant textiles with stylized plant designs were worn by the nobility as a badge of status.
After the first round of direct import from the East, most of the paisley-style shawls were woven at mills in France, England, and Scotland. In fact, the pattern known as paisley takes its name from a Scottish mill town famous for its shawls. England’s Queen Victoria, who took the throne in 1837, was a style-setter who helped to popularize the bright wool shawls, which were worn for warmth over the full-skirted styles of the day and also used in interior design—draped over tables, pianos, and settees.
Shawls from various manufacturing centers can be distinguished by the weave, weight, coloring, and method of finishing on the reverse side. French pieces, for example, exhibit a distinctive weaving technique in which the threads have been clipped short on the back. Important French production centers were Nimes and Lyons. The shawls were woven from the wool of Kashmir goats, sometimes blended with silk. Colors range from reds and creams to hot pink, green, saffron yellow, and turquoise.
When buying an antique cashmere paisley shawl, look for rich colors and a beautiful design. As with any textile, condition is crucial. Shawls were damaged by improper storage, insects, and even daily use. Hold potential purchases up to a strong light to reveal holes and repairs. Small tears were sometimes caused by the practice of pinning shawls at the shoulder.
After the first round of direct import from the East, most of the paisley-style shawls were woven at mills in France, England, and Scotland. In fact, the pattern known as paisley takes its name from a Scottish mill town famous for its shawls. England’s Queen Victoria, who took the throne in 1837, was a style-setter who helped to popularize the bright wool shawls, which were worn for warmth over the full-skirted styles of the day and also used in interior design—draped over tables, pianos, and settees.
Shawls from various manufacturing centers can be distinguished by the weave, weight, coloring, and method of finishing on the reverse side. French pieces, for example, exhibit a distinctive weaving technique in which the threads have been clipped short on the back. Important French production centers were Nimes and Lyons. The shawls were woven from the wool of Kashmir goats, sometimes blended with silk. Colors range from reds and creams to hot pink, green, saffron yellow, and turquoise.
When buying an antique cashmere paisley shawl, look for rich colors and a beautiful design. As with any textile, condition is crucial. Shawls were damaged by improper storage, insects, and even daily use. Hold potential purchases up to a strong light to reveal holes and repairs. Small tears were sometimes caused by the practice of pinning shawls at the shoulder.
Latest page update: made by jsonderg
, Apr 19 2007, 1:21 PM EDT
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